Shop
The Club Shop is open each Tuesday Club Night, and Saturday Workshop, and is run by Nigel Amor (right). The shop offers the following products (at a discount!) to members:
Mylands Finishes:
- Cellulose Sanding Sealer
- High Build Friction Polish
- Melamine Lacquer
- Finishing Oil (250ml and 500ml)
- Mylands Clear Wax (400g)
- Cellulose Thinners
Visit the Mylands Web Site for full details of these products and how to apply them.
RhynoGrip Abrasives:
Quality long-lasting velcro-backed abrasives, 100mm wide, sold in lengths of 1m in the following grits:
- 80 grit (if you must!)
- 120
- 180
- 240
- 320
- 400
- 600
- 800
- 1200
These abrasives can be easily cut to size and shape to fit any velcro-based sanding pads.
Abranet Abrasives:
Mesh-type abrasive from 80 grit to 600 grit - in single sheets or mixed sets
Don't forget that KVWT have their own sew-on embroidered badges (they look very smart on your turning smock).

KVWT…..Basic Finishing Ideas
Some Ideas for Finishing your wood works of art…..the biggest mistake made by many is to apply too much finish….don’t quote me! Your comments are most welcome
*Remember this is only advice & depends on your personal finishing ideas…a good cop out, eh?
‘Elf & Safety… 1. Protect your eyes & lungs at all times
2.Work at a speed that allows you to feel comfortable & safe
3. Reduce lathe speed when applying finish
4. Always remove the toolrest when sanding & applying finish
Sealers: This group includes cellulose, acrylic & shellac varieties. These are used to seal the wood…surprise, surprise ….before applying the finish, but they can be used as a finish in their own right.
Sanding sealers are diluted 50% using the appropriate thinning agent to ‘wet’ the wood & allow the detail to emerge. If undiluted it is impossible to get an even coverage straight from the tin/spray.
Waxes: These come in different types, such as soft paste waxes & hard sticks & can be coloured. They are usually applied over the sealer but some can be applied to bare wood
Durable hard wearing finishes: Lacquers & oils come into this category, some can penetrate the timber to form a surface finish & come in gloss, satin or matt sheen. Oil is deemed the most durable but may not resist finger marks & dirt contamination.
Decorative Finish: If you want to change the appearance of your ‘pride & joy’ try coloured stains & waxes that can be applied to are wood along with chemicals & even bleach!
Food Safe: A difficult one this…the government does publish standards if the piece is likely to come into contact with food. Beeswax, vegetable/mineral oil or liquid paraffin are acceptable. The club has a ‘Chestnut…Food Safe’ finish to use should we think about selling work to the public.
Abrasives: These should be treated as another cutting tool & you get what you pay for. Good quality abrasives are not cheap! 80 grit could be your starting grade & the general advice is to work through the grades…if miss you one then you should start all over again...or so some people think!!!
Polishing cloths & papers: The general rule is mutton cloth for applying sanding sealers & polishing waxes, whereas paper is used friction polish & oils. However, remember paper cloth is abrasive anyway, so it may take time to find the right one for you. Start with kitchen paper towel, but remember NEVER wrap any polishing cloth or paper around your fingers. Also beware of trailing edges which could get trapped in the rotating machinery or your work.
Wire wool & Nyweb/Webrax: ‘0000’ wire wool is used for cutting back finishes & sealers. Nyweb & Webrax are artificial forms of wire wool that do not degrade as readily & do not leave debris behind as they are used.
Possible websites for further information: www.woodturnersinstitute.com